Health News / June 2007
Lucky Lips
Lucky lips are always happy, according to song, and for many, fuller lips are the luckiest ones.
Skin on the lips is unlike skin elsewhere on the body. Without pores, glands or follicles, lips have fewer layers, so skin is thinner, allowing the blood vessels to be visible. That’s what gives lips their natural color. Unlike other parts of the body, lip skin has no oil glands to produce the protective barrier that helps protect skin from the elements. Lips also have a very thin outer layer, which doesn’t provide much barrier to hold in vital moisture.
Body skin produces melanin, which allows tanning as a natural reaction to sun exposure and screens harmful UV rays. Lips, though, produce very little melanin and have little protection against damaging sun rays. And, unlike other skin, lips are always exposed.
The border of the lip is characterized by a smooth, rolled ridge of collagen known as the Vermillion border. The firm collagen shapes and holds the lip contours.
The upper lip normally has a “Cupid’s Bow” formed by the philtrum, two vertical columns of collagen descending from the nose to the lip, which lift the upper lip and produce an anticipatory pucker. Lip shapes and lip prints are like fingerprints, no two are alike.
Wrinkle-free, smooth, full, defined, youthful lips are the ideal. However, genetics, aging and smoking can intervene. Thin, flat lips can be blamed on Mom, but also, Mother Nature. Tissue degrades with aging and definition is lost over the years.
The upper lip is always the first to lose volume. As volume diminishes, less vermilion shows. The nose to lip ratio becomes longer. Many women notice their right and left sides look different. An irregular vermilion border is a common complaint.
Like a sponge, when exposed to moisture, lips absorb water and plump up. When dehydrated, they dry out and shrink. The first step to fuller lips is staying well hydrated and drinking adequate fluids. Humidifiers can also help by providing gently moist environment.
Conditioning lips with a moisturizing balm is the second step. Look for hydrating ingredients like beeswax, shea butter, vitamin E and almond, jojoba or coconut oils.Plain petroleum jelly works well, too.
Licking lips makes them moist for a moment, but saliva contains digestive enzymes that can damage their protective barrier, and cause dry lips. Since they lack melanin, lips are susceptible to sunburn. Sun-protective products with at least SPF 15 are a must.
Injections are one way to plump lips. Collagen injections using collagen extracted from another part of the body have no risk of allergic reaction. Collagen extracted from cows or deceased donors can also be injected, but there’s a risk of allergic response. Artecoll is a synthetic material that lasts longer than collagen but it also has a higher risk of allergic reaction. Injections generally cost about $300 per treatment, last 3-6 months and require an experienced practitioner.
Implants can be made from connective tissue harvested from cadavers or from synthetic polymers that hold moisture. Though considered permanent, most can easily be removed if needed.
New, over-the-counter lip plumpers offer a non-surgical way to create a kissable mouth. In gloss, cream, and stick form, they cause results by slightly inflaming the lip mucosa. In many, the active ingredient is red pepper plants used for making cayenne pepper or Tabasco. Some may contain cinnamon oil or caffeine. Newer formulations feature peptides to stimulate collagen synthesis.
Individual results from lip plumpers vary markedly, from none to some, and not for all.
Make-up can also contribute to fuller looking lips. Prepare lips with a generous slick of lip balm. Allow the balm to set in before continuing. Start with a natural lip liner, and carefully draw around the outside rim of lips. A flesh-colored lip primer fills in lines and builds up the lip contour, giving them a fuller, smoother look. Neutral or lipstick-matching lip liner always is applied before the lipstick, never in a shade darker than the lipstick color. Lipstick can fade, leaving only an outline. Starting at the center of the upper lip, draw a line to each outer corner, following the edge of the natural lip line. Fill in color all over lips for extra holding power for the lipstick.
Make small lips look larger by applying a little Vaseline or lip gloss to the middle of the bottom lip, which brings the lips out, making them look larger. For fuller, poutier lips, spotlight lip gloss right in the center of the mouth. Another way to visually plump lips is with a dot of white shimmery eyeshadow or highlighter in the very center of lips, carefully blended into lip color, but with the color brighter where the mouth opens. Finish with a swab of volumizing lip gloss for extra shine.
If only the upper lip needs attention, outline top and bottom with a pencil that matches the lips natural shade. Then, on the center of the upper lip, use a brown pencil and draw a second line. Apply lip color and the brown blends right in, but the top lip will definitely look fuller. PL
Lip Tricks
The best lip color fixative is a thin layer of Chapstick®. The formula holds lip color firmly as it heals and protects.
To make lip lines less noticeable, instead of applying lipstick horizontally, apply it vertically.
Chilling the lip pencil in the refrigerator for a few minutes makes sharpening easier.
For evening special-effects, apply a sheer lip gloss in silver, gold or an iridescent shade over the lip color.
Powdered lips give lip color and gloss something to cling to for longer, smoother wear.
A lip brush gives the most precision in applying lipstick and uses much less lipstick.
To tone down the brightness of a red lipstick, add a little brown to the red.
Matte lipsticks tend to stay on longer, but can be extremely drying. Alternate them with hydrating lipsticks, those with vitamin E or glycerin, or apply moisturizing lip balm underneath.
For tiny cuts in the corner of the mouth, hydrate with a balm and apply a small dab of over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream.
Wrinkles around the lips, from sun exposure, age or smoking, can be treated like wrinkles on the rest of the face – with chemical peels and creams containing anti-aging ingredients like retinol.
Peeling lips can be an allergic reaction to lipstick, toothpaste, food, or medication. A mild topical hydrocortisone cream can help decrease irritation.
Lip balms with vitamins A,C and E, like Almay One Coat Lip Cream, help keep lips supple and smooth.
Women with small lips should avoid dark color lipstick.
Light blondes can use wines, berry’s, mauves and coffee colors.
Golden blondes should use corals, apricots or peach hues.
Blondes with olive skin are best suited to warm peaches, browns or terra cotta’s.
Brunettes look best with terra cottas, cinnamon’s and brown-tinted reds.
Red heads can use warm terra cotta colors, cinnamon’s and peachy browns.
Glossy or matte, there’s a shade of red lipstick that works perfectly for all skin tones, and crimson lips add a bit of glitz and glamor to any lips.
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