Out
On A Limb / August 2007
Divide and Conquer and Enjoy
 Raspberry Sundae
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Peonies are like good neighbors -they are self sufficient, stay in one place, keep their space attractive and don’t let their offspring wander. Native to Asia and southern Europe as well as North America, they are the only genus in the flowering plant family Paeoniaceae.
In addition to the familiar pink and white flowers, peonies bloom in black, coral, cream, magenta, red, crimson, rose, scarlet, purple, white and yellow.
Most are herbaceous perennial plants, often called garden peonies, that grow from 20 to 36 inches in height, and are grouped according to flower shape: single, semidouble, double, Japanese, and anemone. There are about thirty species of garden peonies.
Additionally, there are about ten species of the woody shrubs known as tree peonies. Much more shrub than tree, they grow 4-5 feet tall under normal conditions and their stems do not die back each year.
Garden peonies are quite content to be left undisturbed for many years. However, a decline in flower production usually indicates overcrowding and the need for division.
The true perennial part of a peony is the root, the only part of the plant which lasts for years. Hidden from view, peony roots are a tangle of large and small tapered storage roots, plus a network of small feeder roots. Although dividing roots can be an art, most species of peonies survive and thrive after having their root system dug, cut into smaller pieces and replanted by everyday gardeners.
Dividing peonies is best done from very late August through late September. Peonies planted in the spring hold a grudge and often won’t bloom for a year or two.
 Streaked and scented Peony 'Kirinmaru'
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The day before transplanting, provide a good soaking to soften the soil for digging. To transplant, dig holes 12-18 inches deep and 18 inches wide, spaced 3-4 feet apart. Incorporate a 2-to 4-inch layer of organic matter, like compost or pine bark. Then, carefully dig around the existing plant, well away from the crown of the plant and try to get as many roots as possible. Lift the entire clump, remove all foliage and wash away the soil from the root system to expose the “eyes”, the reddish-colored buds for next season, on the crown.
Use a clean, sharp tool to divide the clump into sections, each with three to five eyes and good roots. Divisions with just one or two eyes normally take 3 to 5 years to flower. Place the peony divisions in their prepared place so the eyes are only one to two inches below the soil’s surface. Backfill and water well. Newly transplanted peonies appreciate mulch during their first winter.
Water peonies thoroughly and deeply once every 10 to 14 days. Deep watering encourages deep rooting. Once established, peonies are obligingly drought-resistant and relatively pest free. The ants that visit them during peak blooming periods are harmless and quickly disappear when the ‘opening show’ is over.
In the fall, after frost, cut back the dead stems of herbaceous peonies (NOT the tree peonies!). Come spring, apply a low nitrogen fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10) when the stems are about 2 or 3 inches high. Remove the seed heads after flowering is complete to allow the plant to store more energy for next year’s bloom.
If peonies don’t flower, they may be planted too deep or in too much shade. Sometimes, a late frost will kill the flower buds and gardeners have to wait until next year for blooms. And, sometimes, peonies that are very young or have been recently moved or disturbed, just need a year or so to get accustomed to their new surroundings.
Though single bloom peonies can withstand the elements without help, count on staking those with large, fully double blooms since they tend to arch toward the ground even in good weather and can be driven into the ground by the violent rainstorms of spring. PL
Copyright © 2007 A Woman's View. All rights reserved.
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