Out On A Limb / October 2006

Light Up Life With Bulbs

Fritillaria Imperialis

By Jane C. Martin

Hardy bulbs provide some of the earliest bloom in spring gardens. Growing them successfully requires a knowledge of life cycle, cultural requirements, and use. “Hardy” refers to their ability to withstand low winter temperatures and bloom year after year.

A true bulb is a modified, underground stem, usually surrounded by scalelike, modified leaves, and containing stored food for the shoots enclosed within. Scales are held together by a hardened stem tissue, known as the basal plate. Tulip, daffodil, hyacinth, and lilies are examples of true bulbs. Crocus, often thought to be a bulb, is actually a corm, a mass of fleshy tissue with a bud on the top surface. This tissue disintegrates as stored food is used to produce roots and shoots. A new corm forms on top of the old one’s remains. Bulbs and corms are living structures and require careful handling even in a dormant state.

In general, hardy bulbs produce foliage and blooms in spring. They’re dormant or in a resting state over summer months. Low temperatures are required to break dormancy so growth may resume in fall and early winter.

Anemone

Good quality bulbs produce good bloom. Usually, the larger the bulb, the better it will bloom. Beware “bargain” bulbs that are often too small to bloom the first season. Bulbs should be firm, heavy, and in good condition. The tunic (skin) should be smooth, of good color, and free from injury. The basal plate must be intact.

Plant from mid-August until soil freezes. Daffodils, however, are best planted in September or early October because they require a longer period for root development. Mail order bulbs arriving at an inconvenient planting time, should be stored in a cool, well-ventilated area.

Choose a site in full sun, but with protection from midday summer sun. Planting under or near large deciduous trees that cast filtered shade works well. Plants in full sun will bloom earlier than those in partial shade. A few plants that withstand partial shade include daffodils; Triumph, Parrot, and Fosterana tulips; some hardy lilies; some Crocus; checkered lily (Fritillaria); and some windflowers (Anemone).

Bulbs must not be planted in areas that do not drain well, or they will perform poorly or rot. For heavy clay soil, mix it with one-third to one-half organic material like peat moss, compost, or aged bark. Raised beds also provide good drainage. Soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0.

Scilla

Work soil 12 inches deep; loose soil below the bulb is important for good root development. Incorporate three pounds of a complete fertilizer (such as a 5-10-10) per 100 square feet in as soil is being prepared.
Recommended planting depths are given to the bottom of the bulb. For hyacinths, plant six inches deep; tulips, six inches or deeper; and daffodils, six to eight inches deep. Smaller bulbs in these groups and the minor bulbs are planted shallower. Space large bulbs four to six inches apart; small bulbs one to two inches. For greater effect, plant in clumps or irregular masses rather than singly.

Once planted, replace half the depth of soil, then water. Finish covering with soil and water again. If fall weather is dry, water as needed to promote good root development. Mulch may be placed over newly planted areas once soil has frozen to a depth of one to two inches. This keeps soil frozen and prevents alternate freezing and thawing, which may cause the soil to heave and injure newly planted bulbs.

Mulch over bulbs planted very late in the season can extend the root development period and keep prepared soil from freezing. This method can be used for bulbs, like hardy lilies, that cannot be obtained until late in the season. After planting and as soon as soil has frozen one to two inches, replace mulch.

Narcissus, or daffodils, are easy to grow, multiply quickly, and may need division about every four years. Tulips bulbs may be planted deeper (up to twelve inches) to remain cool. At this depth, bulbs multiply less but produce a good size bloom for a few years. Generally, tulips are not planted in beds with other bulbs.

Formal, fragrant Hyacinth blooms at the same time mid-season tulips are blooming. Hyacinths are planted in small, irregular groups for best effect.

The “minor bulbs” include Muscari, or grape hyacinth, Crocus, Scilla, Anemone blanda, Iris reticulata, Galanthus, Chionodoxa, and Eranthis and others. All are small, short plants used in informal, massed plantings for greatest effect. They are often used in rock gardens or serve as groundcover for larger bulbs or shrub plantings. Plantings should be mulched to avoid mud splashed blooms.

Jane C. Martin is Extension Educator, Ohio State University Extension. For more information, visit ohioline.osu.edu/lines .

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