Good Taste / September 2006

Cooked, Crooked and Casseroled

The English word “squash” comes from ‘askutasquash’, which translated from the Native American Narrangansett language, means literally “a green thing eaten raw”. The founder of Rhode Island documented the abbreviation in a publication written in 1643. Part of a large family related to cucumbers and melons, technically squash is a fruit, a berry, actually, but squashes are generally considered a vegetable in cooking. They come in all sizes, shapes and colors, which makes them an interesting family of vegetables.

Some are long and thin like the vegetable marrow, others, like the button squashes, are small and squat with scalloped edges. Most have an edible thin skin and white to yellow, sweet, succulent flesh. Squash are generally available all year round with a peak from July to November.

Squashes are four species of the genus Cucurbita. Squashes are categorized as summer squash or winter squash, depending on when they are harvested. Summer squashes, varieties of the species classified as Cucurbita pepo, includes the small pie pumpkins, standard field pumpkins, acorn squash, vegetable spaghetti, zucchini, yellow crookneck squash, pattypan and most other summer squashes. The small, quick growing summer squashes are harvested during the summer, while the skin is still tender and the fruit relatively small.

The small, quick-growing forms that are eaten before the rinds and seeds begin to harden. They require little cooking and are often eaten raw in salads.

Winter squashes, like Hubbard, Boston, Marrow, turban, and butternut squashes are generally varieties of the species classified as Cucurbita maxima. They tend to be late-growing, less symmetrical, oddly shaped, rough or warty and small to medium in size. Winter squashes are harvested at the end of summer, generally cured to further harden the skin, and stored in a cool place for eating later. They often require longer cooking time than summer squashes.

Squash is native to North America and was one of the “Three Sisters” planted by Native Americans. The Three Sisters were the three main indigenous plants used for agriculture: corn, beans, and squash. These were usually planted together, with the cornstalk providing support for the climbing beans, and shade for the squash. The squash vines provided ground cover to limit weeds.

In addition to the fruit, many other parts of squash plants are edible. Squash seeds can be eaten directly, ground into paste, or, particularly for pumpkins, pressed for vegetable oil. The shoots, leaves, and tendrils can be eaten as greens. The blossoms are an important part of native American cooking and are also used in many other parts of the world. Squash are an excellent source of vitamin C and a good source of dietary fiber. Those squash that are darker in color supply some beta carotene.

Although squash has historically been pollinated by the native North American squash bee, Peponapis pruinosa, pesticide sensitivity has resulted in a population reduction of squash bees. Today most commercial plantings are pollinated by honeybees. The US Department of Agriculture recommends one hive per acre. Gardeners with a shortage of bees often have to pollinate by hand.

Squashes have been developed in many varieties and yield fruits of widely differing forms, sizes, colors and flavors. Condiments and seasonings of all kinds complement their taste, from basic salt and pepper to sugar and garden mint. Perhaps because they are a fruit too, squash blends well with other fruits, like bananas and apples.

Squash isn’t as common in Europe because it requires a long growing season and prefers hot, dry weather. Short, wet European summers are not well suited to them. They prefer to grow in a temperate climate with a well-drained soil, planted from seeds or from seedlings. It takes about 2 weeks for seeds to start growing into a seedling.

The parent plant grows very quickly into a twining vine with large, broad, spiny, lobed leaves and an angled, prickly green stem. Small yellow flowers are male or female and the female flowers. Squash are harvested by cutting them from the vine through the stem and need to be harvested frequently. The harvesting is done by hand due to the very soft squash skin, making squash very labor intensive to grow commercially, but a pleasure for the home gardener and a delight for fans of squash casserole.

Fresh and Quick Orange Spaghetti Squash

1 spaghetti squash (about 3 ¼ lbs.)
1 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
½ cup fresh orange juice
½ cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1 Tbsp julienne fresh orange rind
Cover with water and boil the squash, turning occasionally, for 1 hour, drain and cool 10 minutes. Cut the squash in half and discard the seeds. Scrape out the flesh and transfer to a serving dish. Season with salt and pepper, and dot with butter. Drizzle the orange juice over the squash, sprinkle the squash with parsley, and garnish with the rind. Serves 4.

Butternut Squash with Raisins

2 pounds butternut squash
1 tablespoon butter
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons raisins
Peel squash; remove seeds and cut into small pieces. Cover with water in a large saucepan and cook over high heat for about 10 minutes, or until squash is tender. Drain well and mash with butter and Worcestershire sauce. Stir in raisins. Serves 4.

Creamy Chilled Zucchini Soup

4 ½ cups peeled, sliced, steamed zucchini
1 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon toasted & ground cumin seeds
½ teaspoon salt
Steam zucchini ten minutes, or until very tender. Blend all the ingredients and serve chilled, with a crisp tossed salad and a loaf of crusty bread. Serves 4.

Summer Squash and Corn Saute’

1 ½ tablespoons light olive oil
1 large green or red bell pepper, cut into short strips
2 medium yellow summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick
1 to 1 and ½ cups uncooked corn kernels (from 1 to 2 ears)
2 medium firm tomatoes, diced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Heat oil in a wide skillet. Add bell pepper and saute over medium heat for about 2 minutes. Add squash and corn, continue to saute, stirring frequently, until vegetables are slightly tender. Add tomatoes and continue to saute briefly, just until they have lost their raw quality. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

 

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